Where to Eat & Drink in Paris in the Winter
Winter in Paris is when the city feels most itself — quieter sidewalks, glowing interiors, long meals, and the reassuring rhythm of cafés that have seen decades (sometimes centuries) of conversation.
Here’s where I ate and drank this winter — a mix of historic cafés, legendary bars, and places that feel both historical but always relevant. Bookmark this post for your next visit!
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La Fontaine de Mars
📍 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris
🌐 La Fontaine de Mars
A true Left Bank institution, La Fontaine de Mars has been serving classic French cuisine since 1908. It’s iconic decor of copper pans, red-and-white checked tablecloths, handwritten menus, vintage posters and the comforting hum of regulars.
In winter, this is exactly where you want to linger over a platter of briny Gillardeau oysters, a proper cassoulet, tartare de bouef and the perfect crême brûlé.
It feels unapologetically Parisian — traditional without being precious — and remains one of the most reliable tables in the 7th arrondissement. It’s always a good sign when there are more locals than tourists.
They even have their own book, “A Parisian Bistro”, celebrating the restaurant’s history through it’s most iconic recipes:
If you can’t get into La Fontaine de Mars, just across the way on the other side of the fountain is the cozy and delicious Bistro Saint Dominique:
La Coupole
📍 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris
🌐 La Coupole
Opened in 1927, La Coupole is a Montparnasse landmark — famous for its Art Deco interior and its history as a meeting place for artists like Picasso, Man Ray, and Josephine Baker.
It’s grand, bustling, and unapologetically old-school. In winter, it shines with oysters, seafood platters, classic brasserie dishes and a sense of Paris at scale. You will not go here for a quiet tête à tête, but rather be a part of the party. Given the time of year we were there, there were many large groups – friends, colleauges, families – all gathering for that end of year event – to say good-bye to the previous year and look forward to the next. If anything, you will want to take in the decor – the art deco lamps, the cieling, the painted posts with pre-depression era joy.
Café de la Paix
📍 5 place de l’Opéra, 75009 Paris
🌐 https://www.cafedelapaix.fr
Opened in 1862, Café de la Paix is one of Paris’s grand cafés — all gilded ceilings, chandeliers, and velvet banquettes. Sitting here in winter, with coats piled beside you and the Opéra Garnier glowing outside, feels almost theatrical.
Historically, it attracted writers, composers, and travelers arriving from the Grand Hôtel next door. Today, it’s still perfect for afternoon coffee and dessert (which we did), champagne at dusk and of course, people-watching under Belle Époque splendor.
I will say that a.) it was recommended by our Parisian friends to meet there but b.) there was a line of tourists to get in. Parisians really do not approve of standing in line for places that were once their own but are now over-run by tik-tok influencers. I took one for the team and stood in line (about 20 minutes) – but in true Grand Café fashion, I stood on a red carpet, under a gorgeous awning with heat lamps, so it was ok.
The decor alone during the holidays is worth going – the ballerina themed Christmas trees were precious, I wished I could have taken my daughters there when they were little.
Harry’s Bar
📍 5 rue Daunou, 75002 Paris
🌐 https://www.harrysbar.fr
Founded in 1911, Harry’s Bar is a Paris legend — and a cornerstone of cocktail history. It’s credited with inventing classics like the Bloody Mary and the Sidecar, and was a favorite of Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and the Lost Generation.
The bar itself is dark, cozy, and unchanged in the best way. In winter, it’s the perfect refuge with warm wood, American university and college banners strung throughout (UCLA was there), tight quarters, expertly made cocktails.
When I lived in Paris and had a bout of ‘mal du pays’ (homesickness), I would head to Harry’s. I was thrilled to see that it has not changed one bit.
Café de Flore
📍 172 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
🌐 https://cafedeflore.fr
Perhaps the most famous café in Paris, Café de Flore has been a fixture since the late 19th century and a gathering place for intellectuals like Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. Yes, it’s iconic. Yes, it’s busy. And yet — on a gray winter afternoon or evening, sitting inside with a café crème, it still feels meaningful.
We came here after watching a Christmas Concert at the Église Saint-Germaine-des-Près. It was one of the most incredible concerts I have ever seen (sort of putting to shame the quaint little pageants my kids were in!) and our heads were spinning. We ducked into the covered terrace at Café de Flore. The waiters were in rare form (again, if you speak a little French, it goes a very long way). I was so excited to see the table coverings were a Sempé illustration that I had purchased years earlier and now it hangs in my office at school. The waiter was so happy that I knew who Sempé was, he gave me extra table coverings. A win-win.
This is a place to sit and write (and no, they will not rush you along), watch Paris pass by and participate (briefly) in a long cultural lineage.
Les Deux Magots
📍 6 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 75006 Paris
🌐 https://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr
Across the square from Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots dates back to 1885 and shares a similar intellectual pedigree, hosting writers, artists, and political figures for over a century.
The interior feels slightly more formal, slightly quieter — a good place for breakfast in winter light, lunch or snack while pausing between bookshops and galleries or even dinner. I can’t really decide if I love Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots better.
Les Deux Magots does have its outdoor “garden” now, so that is a great option for summer. But both in the winter are so quintessential Paris and I am so happy they have retained that through all the modernization and change that has occurred in classic cities like Paris.
Les Parisiens
📍 13 rue du Pré-aux-Clercs, 75007 Paris
🌐 Les Parisiens
Located inside the elegant Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain, Les Parisiens is a modern brasserie that still feels deeply Parisian.
The menu focuses on refined French comfort food, beautifully presented without being showy. In winter, the entrance is adorned in only a way Paris can do and the room feels especially warm and intimate — ideal after a day wandering the Left Bank.
A perfect example of how Paris does contemporary dining without losing its soul.
James Joyce Bar
📍 13 rue du Pré-aux-Clercs, 75007 Paris
🌐 https://www.pavillon-faubourg-saint-germain.com
Also part of the Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain, the James Joyce Bar is one of my favorite winter discoveries.
The decor is lovely – It’s cozy, low-lit, and literary. The cocktails are works of art, too pretty to touch and the crowd is elegant (even their dogs). We ended our cold Paris days several times here, thanks to the decor, ambiance, quality service and intimacy.
La Rotonde
📍 2 Place d’Estienne d’Orves, 75009 Paris
For this last spot, I will say ‘buyer beware’ – only because I had a lovely experience but I later saw that some of the reviews are not great. This classic bistro in the 9th is located on the Square Estienne d’Orves with a view of the Holy Trinity Church. We needed a break from the serious shopping we were doing at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and this bistro is not too far, but far enough away from the ugly fast-food eateries surrounding the big department stores. It was drizzly and gray but the holiday lights were twinkling. The staff was great and it was full of families also taking a break from shopping and a few local Parisians slugging down coffees or a pression at the bar. The daily specials were hand-written on the ardoise and it was very cozy.
Le Recrutement
📍 36 Bd de la Tour-Maubourg, 75007 Paris, France
🌐 Le recrutement
Le Recrutement is fast becoming a favorite and a must-stop to each trip. Fantastic for breakfast on a sunny morning in the summer but also for lunch during the winter. Inside is absolutely bustling with Parisians on lunch break all rolling their eyes at tourists with selfie sticks about to get creamed by an RATP bus while filming themselves in the intersection. That is because this little bistro sits on the corner of a street with a phenomenal view of the Eiffel Tower. The waiters are delightful – a bit snarky but that’s how you want your bistro waiters in Paris. (I can’t say this enough – if you learn a bit of restaurant French, it will make your experience so, so much more enjoyable!)
Final Thoughts
Winter dining in Paris isn’t about chasing the newest opening. It’s about returning to places that understand time, ritual, and comfort.
These cafés and restaurants have endured because they offer more than food or drink — they offer a way to inhabit the city.
If you’re planning a trip to Paris, I’d return to every one of these tables without hesitation. And if you’ve been to one of these places, I would love to hear about experience – drop a comment below!
Merci!
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Other Paris Food & Drink Recommendations:
Place Dauphine: History, Cafés, and Hidden Beauty in Paris
Best Croissants in Paris + Where to Stay Nearby
Parisian Rooftop Terraces with the Best Views
7 Restaurants to try for your next trip to Paris
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